Leg 2...Porto

I love Portugal. It is beautiful, friendly and cheap. We visited Porto after Champagne, taking a late night Ryan Air flight with a band of gypsies. We arrived at our apartment around 12:30am and were very fortunately and kindly met by the property manager. The apartment was small but clean and nice. The bed might be the worst I've ever "slept" on. I'm not sure I would have slept had walking through the steep hills of the city not completely exhausted me.

The city is beautiful. Typical Portuguese tile and architecture fill the streets with photo opportunities. I probably had my poorest navigational outing unfortunately. None of the streets are straight and they tend to change names at every bend. Couple that with the hills and tall buildings that obstruct the view of landmarks and a poor map and you have a recipe for getting lost. Fortunately we never got too lost and once we got in sight of the Douro River we were grand.

We toured 3 port houses. Taylor Fladgate and Grahams were done without reservations and therefore without the Total Wine treatment or discount. The tours and tastings were still enjoyable (despite having to put up with other people!). The Fladgate property was the most beautiful. It had a large entry patio covered with grapevines and a restaurant with a patio overlooking the Douro. Grahams had the nicest barrel and tasting room. Grahams is still connected to the English royal family and makes Colheita port (single vintage tawny) coinciding with British monarchical events and then sends some to the family for anniversaries of those events. Offley was the best tour because Dana had scheduled a tour and it was private with the wine educator for the company that owns the port house (and many other houses) who also used to be a master blender for Cockburn's. He was fascinating and made the process of port making and the varying influences (including the American wine critics) on the current styles relevant and interesting. The tasting had 7 ports, 2 of which might be the best wines I've ever tasted. The 30yr tawny (which we can't find for sale in the U.S.) and the 2011 Vintage Port. Completely different, totally amazing. We were told that 2011 in Port might be the best vintage of the last century (1963 being the only rival), so if you're into Vintage port stock up!

We also did a little cruse up the Douro seeing the multiple bridges connecting Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia and steep banks on both sides of the river. It was interesting how many of the properties along the river were in disrepair. The view is so beautiful it seems like prime territory for an investor. We enjoyed everything (except the hills on foot). The food and people, the wine of course. Next time we're going to go up the Douro to see where the vineyards are planted and the wine made. Exciting times!